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OUR AWESOME ADVENTURE
THROUGH MONTANA, WYOMING, COLORADO, TEXAS, NEW MEXICO,
NEVADA, UTAH, ARIZONA....
Part I
Months of
planning and finally the day had arrived. Our bags were
packed and repacked, our route carefully planned to not miss
a thing and our riding gear draped over our bikes in
anticipation. We were leaving on a 3 ½ week motorcycle trip
into the US. Not even the rain, which had appeared after
months of dry Okanagan summer weather, could dampen our
spirits. We were ready!
My bike for
this years’ trip was the 2007 Nomad 1600 I had been riding
all summer long so the bike and I were well acquainted and
ready to go. Kevin had also nicely equipped it with a GPS
and satellite radio. Yes, call me a spoiled biker. I don’t
mind. This handy device would proof to be invaluable
through the bigger centers of Denver, El Paso, Phoenix and
Las Vegas.
We were
also in good company again, traveling with our friends Peter
and Shannon. This being our third long distance bike trip,
we were well aware of each others habits and comfort zones.
For anyone traveling in a group, this is probably the
biggest hurdle to overcome. Good friends that are ready to
play bike tag after a few days of spending more than the
weekly casual evening together. It is a test of a
friendship, a test that we had already passed some years
back. And so on a gloomy Sunday morning we headed out of
Vernon towards Revelstoke and the Rocky Mountains. As we
made our way through the twisty road along Lake Mara which
is usually such a beautiful ride with houseboats bopping
along the shoreline, charcoal colored rain clouds were
looming. Within minutes the skies opened up. We were going
to be in for a wet ride but our spirits remained high in
anticipation of warm weather to come some days ahead. Our
lunch stop at Golden’s extremely busy Tim Horton’s gave us
reason to hope that the bad weather had passed. The skies
were looking much better and the rain had subsided. Little
did we know that this was just a reprieve from the stormy
weather. As we got closer to Banff, the skies opened up
again in all its fury. Shannon on her Kawasaki Vulcan 1500
classic, who was riding in front of me, literally
disappeared into the rain and spray off the road as speed
demons past by. No mercy on the “poor” bikers in the rain.
Arriving in
Chestermere, just outside of Calgary around 7pm that
evening, we were definitely ready for a nice glass of wine
to warm us up. Kevin’s son Clint greeted us with open arms
as Kelly prepared some wonderful meat and cheese plates for
the weary travelers. Their hospitality was wonderful and
much appreciated after such a rainy first day.
6am came
around pretty quickly the following morning but with Great
Falls, Montana in our sight we were ready to go and headed
off in the cool morning with our heated vests securely
plugged in. Heading south east towards Lethbridge and onto
the US border, the weather improved to our delight. The
roads were in wonderful shape, the traffic light and easy.
We put on the miles in our quest to make it south as quickly
as possible.
The border
crossing took its time but the staff was friendly and we got
through quickly once it was our turn. The scenery in
Montana did not change much over southern Alberta. Flat,
rolling plane all around with little to look at made it that
much nicer to have the satellite radio play music in my
ear. Our evening stay was the Crystal Inn in Great Falls,
Montana. The hotel has a great trucker’s buffet right next
door that I highly recommend. For $8.99 you can enjoy some
wonderfully fresh foods and great desserts. The hotel
itself was clean and comfortable even though the chlorine
level in the hot tub was slightly over the top. The only
complained or maybe it should be called slight shock and
aggravation did not come until the next morning. We enjoyed
our breakfast with our bags already packed on the bikes and
riding gear sitting on the seats only to find that the
hotel’s automatic sprinklers had come on while we were
having breakfast. A fellow hotel guest alerted us and to
our chagrin, the sprinklers were nicely soaking our bikes
and gear. Oh, but the sun was shining, we were on our much
anticipated bike trip and a bunch of sprinklers were not
going to “dampen” our mood. So we packed our sheep skin
seat covers up to the room, dried them with a hair dryer and
headed on our way smelling like damp sheep. With big smiles
that is.
This day
too presented us with challenges as we were still trying to
get used to the full operations of our on board GPS
systems. Kevin had unfortunately programmed in the wrong
destination, heading straight for the next days final stop.
I had programmed in the right destination on my GPS and was
slightly perplexed when he kept on ignoring the directions.
For anyone that has already worked with a GPS, you will
sympathize with the fact that a friendly voice continuously
reminds you that you are going the wrong way with a gentle
“recalculating” that seems to get more and more persistent
the more you ignore it.
The scenery
was beautiful as we twisted our way up through the
continental divide for the first time. But eventually, I
could not take anymore of the annoying “recalculating”
coming from the GPS and pulled ahead of Kevin who had had no
idea that he had miss-programmed his GPS. This having been
a somewhat negative GPS experience, I must note that I
highly recommend purchasing a motorcycle specific GPS to
anyone going on longer bike trips and especially when
heading into larger, unknown cities. As motorcyclists do
not have the ability to hang onto a map and ride at the same
time, a GPS giving verbal street by street directions takes
the stress right out of finding your way around a new city.
Add to it traveling at higher speeds with lots of traffic on
a US freeway without any way of communicating with your
fellow bikers and you’ll soon learn to appreciate these
handy devices even more.
The day
continued with lunch at a gas station in Harlow town and a
stop at Custer’s last stand. Back in the 1800s, General
Custer tried to battle against 2,000 Native Americans with
his troop of just over 200 soldiers. This is definitely a
stop for a history buff. Our day of riding took us to
Sheridan, Wyoming and a very comfortable Comfort Inn that we
moved into after seeing the America’s Best Value Motel which
we actually had reservations for. The hotel hot tub and the
Comfort Inn was a welcome site as was our dinner at Pony’s
in down town Sheridan. An institution in the town of
Sheridan, Pony’s is the place to go.
Finally,
the next morning, we woke up to beautiful weather. It was
cold mind you but cold can be remedied with lots of warm
clothing. Wyoming was waiting to be discovered. The wide
open spaces of southern Wyoming remained with us the entire
day. There is really not much to see in this part of the
country except wide open spaces. We crossed the continental
divide twice and rode into Colorado. This was only our
fourth day on the road and we had already been through
British Columbia, Alberta and were now into the third
state. Our stop that night was at a very comfortable Best
Western Hotel in Craig, Colorado. More bikers were now
visible at the local hotels probably due to the fact that we
were further south. The temperatures were becoming more and
more bearable bringing out more of the fair weather bikers.
The four of us were finding our riding groove and the every
day stresses were starting to melt away. Enjoying the warm
evening temperatures with a cool beer in hand before
retiring and charging up for another day on the road, we
reflected on what we had already experienced and all the
fabulous places yet to come.
Part II
It was day
5 of our bike trip and the miserable rainy weather that had
followed us through parts of British Columbia and Alberta
was hopefully a distant memory. Kevin and I were on our
third bike trip with our good friends Peter and Shannon and
were enjoying every day more as the stresses of every day
life were melting away. Our cruisers were not skipping a
beat and we were enjoying the ever improving weather. My
bike for this trip was a well equipped Kawasaki Vulcan
Nomad, with Shannon riding her Vulcan 1500 Classic and the
men on Vulcan 2000 VTwins. The sun that peaked through the
window on this morning in Craig, Colorado was certainly a
welcome sight. We had already experienced the rolling
prairies of Alberta, Montana and Wyoming and were now highly
anticipating the higher elevations of Colorado. As we
singed down the packs on our bikes, another group of bikers
waved as they rode onto the highway. We weren’t too far
behind them as we swung our legs over our bikes and road out
of town and towards the Continental Divide. The vistas
became more interesting with higher, rolling hills and more
vegetation than the open prairies we had now left behind.
Just outside of Winter Park, Colorado we hit the 10,000 foot
mark for the first time. The road twisted and turned up the
mountain but was not as biker friendly as we had hoped with
large wash-board sections in the corners along the way up.
The speed limits posted are definitely speed limits to
respect. As we made our way up the mountain, back down
again and then up to Echo Lake, the road did improve. It
was a blast heading towards the lodge at Echo Lake as the
road twisted and turned and no longer showed the signs of
heavy traffic that had left the wash-board marks coming out
of Winter Park. Echo Lake Lodge, situated at around 10,000
feet, is a great lunch spot and a ride no biker going to
Colorado should miss. We fueled up with some hot chili, put
on our extra gear and headed up towards Mount Evans at over
14,000 feet, a ride I will not soon forget.
The road to
Mount Evans is the highest paved road in North America,
leading right to the top of Mount Evans. Every biker should
experience this incredible road to the highest accessible
point on pavement on this continent. But, it certainly is
not for the faint of heart. The road is narrow, the corners
are tight and there are absolutely no guard rails. There is
no room for error. Summit Lake represents the mid-point of
the climb and also the spot where the road becomes a bumpy
mess for about a mile. Years of severe weather have
certainly done a number to this section of the road, but as
we headed further up, the road did improve once again.
This ride
is both impressive and exhilarating and unexpected weather
can move in at any time. As we were winding up the road,
two weather systems were approaching. From my vantage
point, I could see rain fall miles below us. What an
incredible site. As we all took the final turns up the
tight and narrow road, hail began to pebble us. This was
uncomfortable to say the least but none of us were going to
turn around at that point. We were almost there.
Reaching
the top in a blowing fury of hail and wind, I was sure
wishing that the coffee shop that had existed up here for
many years was still standing. Phenomenally, this road had
actually been built in the 20s and a coffee shop had
remained here until the 70s when it burned down in a fiery
propane explosion. The skeleton of its existence looked
ghostly in the storm but sightseeing was not on our minds at
that point. We opted to huddle in the bathroom entrance
until the storm passed with a vengeance. The thunder was
deafening, the lightning too close for comfort as we felt
the center of the storm pass through. At 14,000 feet, we
were literally in the storm. To put this height in
perspective, most of us will never be at this elevation,
unless of course, in an airplane.
As the
weather system finally passed, we were able to walk around
and look at our incredible surroundings. No trees at this
elevation, just rock, very hardy vegetation and the road
that we had traveled up on covered in white. As we walked
around under heavy breath from lack of oxygen, we spotted
some mountain goats and wondered why anything would want to
call this hostile yet amazing place home.
The ride
down was definitely less intense not having to ride the
clutch in first gear. We all took our time navigating the
corners. We had waited long enough to let the hail and snow
melt off the road. The sun was starting to peak through the
clouds, displaying long and slender rays down the mountain
side. Denver, the mile high city, could be seen far down in
the valley. As we descended to Denver on another twisty
road on the other side of the mountain, the exhilaration of
the day was not wearing off too quickly. Avoiding the huge
city, we rode onto Colorado Springs for some much needed
relaxation after such a awe-inspiring day.
Mount
Evans, a ride that no bike enthusiast should miss. Our bad
weather experience that day was a bit of a double edged sort
as we had to deal with miserable hail but at the same time
got to experience a thunderstorm like never before. The
road was in good enough shape to maneuver a big cruiser with
ease, yet slowly. The rough part of the road was manageable
and certainly not worth turning around for. Not everything
has to be done at great speeds and certainly this adventure
was worth it. It was a great day to be alive, a great day
to be on a bike.
Part III
After 5
days of riding, we took a well deserved day to relax and
refuel in Colorado Springs, Colorado. We had already seen
so much traveling from British Columbia, through Alberta,
Montana, Wyoming and into Colorado via the highest paved
road on this continent. Shannon and I were quite excited to
park our bikes for a day and that our men had decided to
book us into a luxurious Sheraton Hotel. Yes, even biker
girls need to be spoiled once in awhile. Unfortunately, the
Sheraton chain had just pulled its name some three weeks
prior and we were welcomed into a Crown Plaza Hotel. We
quickly found why this Sheraton was no longer a Sheraton but
were still grateful for the one day break. The trailer
latch on Peter’s trailer was repaired, we shopped for
supplies, gave our four cruisers some TLC at the local car
wash and Kevin got to tour some local motorcycle shops.
Well rested, we were up at the crack of dawn with our bikes
loaded at 8am sharp. Hot air balloons were dancing in the
clear blue morning sky as we left Colorado Springs for our
first destination of the day, the Royal Gorge. The road was
in wonderful shape and with the crispness of the sunny
morning air on our faces, I could not think of a better
place to be. Twisting and turning up the foothills towards
the Royal Gorge we reached our destination in record time.
The Royal Gorge is definitely worth a visit even though it
is unquestionably a bit of a tourist trap. As “early birds”
we were able to get in for $16 instead of the regular $23
per adult. The Royal Gorge is a deep and narrow gorge that
can be crossed via a suspension bridge that hangs high over
the Arkansas River below. At 1053 feet, this is the highest
suspension bridge in the world and amazingly, vehicle
traffic is still allowed to cross. Kevin and Peter took the
opportunity to clatter across the old suspension bridge
before we headed out of the park and decided to take part in
a helicopter ride. The Royal Gorge Helitours company
operated by Mike Pond is located directly outside of the
park and a must-do for any thrill seekers. Peter and
Shannon had arrived at the Heli company hut a few minutes
before us and had already decided on the deluxe tour.
Deciding that we will never be here again, the full meal
deal was the only option. We had seen owner Mike Pond take
the chopper in a nose dive through the canyon several times
that morning from our vantage point on the suspension bridge
and were amazed at his flying abilities. As we lifted off
the pad and flew towards the canyon, Mike seemed to make a
few maneuvers to test the willingness of his onboard
guests. Having seen the sheer drop down the canyon wall
that he took his previous guests, we should have been
prepared. We were not. We reached the rim of the canyon
and dropped down at full speed and I could not help but
scream in amazement, terror!? It was unbelievably
exhilarating. Mike took the chopper to its outer limits as
he dipped, turned and popped us hard back out of the canyon
on several occasions. It is an unbelievable experience and
better than any theme park thrill-ride. As he gently
dropped the helicopter back onto its pad, we exited the
chopper buzzing with excitement. Taking a few minutes to
compose from this incredibly ride, we swung our legs over
our bikes and road onto Salida, Colorado. The ride to our
destination took less than an hour but with the adrenaline
rush of the Heli ride still running through our blood like a
sugar rush, we enjoyed the twists and turns of the highway
even more.
Salida is
an ideal starting point for any outdoor enthusiast. Located
in the Arkansas River valley, Salida is surrounded by the
Sawatch, Sangre de Cristo, and Mosquito Mountain ranges,
boasting 12 peaks over 14,000 feet. We comfortably settled
into the local Comfort Inn and thoroughly enjoyed their
clean pool and hot tub facilities. After a good night sleep
and a hot waffle breakfast, we were ready to experience more
of this fabulous high country. Unfortunately, our morning
took a turn for the worse as Kevin and I miss-communicated
at the gas pumps and rubbed bike front fender and rear hard
bag together. Traveling as a couple can present its own set
of tense moments to which I can fortunately say we only had
this particular one. Reflecting back, Peter and Shannon
were absolute gems, staying far away from the frustrations
of their traveling companions. Bracing for cooler
temperatures and even frostier moods, we headed towards the
mountains dressed in our heated riding gear and time to
reflect over our gas bar “kiss”. The Monarch Pass at 11,000
feet was another spectacular ride providing us with the
biggest, longest sweeping corners yet. The road was wide
and lightly traveled. The temperature was crisp with
beautiful vistas glowing in the morning sun. We made up and
took some pictures at the top of the Monarch Pass which is
also part of the Continental Divide, before heading way down
to a meager 8,000 feet. Shortly before Montrose, we took a
side-trip to the Black Canyon. It’s a fun 6 mile jaunt to
the Visitor’s Center where some of the most spectacular
views of the Black Canyon can be experienced. Being a
National Park, an entrance fee is charged. On a long
excursion like ours, an annual National Parks pass is
definitely worth the money and saves time to boot. We
weren’t the only bikers there and as always, hellos and
stories were exchanged before heading onto Montrose for
lunch.
After
refueling our bodies and bikes we headed towards Ouray, a
quaint town originally settled by miners looking for silver
and gold in the late 1800s. Boasting a hot springs and
vibrant, old downtown, Ouray would have been worth an
overnight stay. Referred to as the “Switzerland of
America”, this small town is surrounded by steep mountains
on three sides and considered the winter ice-climbing
capital of the US. Located in the Suan Juan Mountains,
Ouray is also the starting point of the “Million Dollar
Highway” leading to Silverton and Durango via the 10,000+
foot Red Mountain Pass. This highway should be on every
biker’s agenda when traveling through southwestern
Colorado. The road twists and turns along the Uncompahgre
River with steep cliffs and lack of guardrails making this
leg of the trip very memorable. By the time we arrived in
Durango that night, we had past over three 10,000 foot
mountain passes and felt tired and exhausted from the
excitement of the day.
The Best
Western in Durango was without doubt geared towards bikers
as they provided bike towels and greeted our group along
with another 20 or so bikers with open arms. The hot tub
and pool which we fully enjoyed that night were housed under
a huge glass dome. Our dinner at Mama’s Boy was wonderful.
The service however was rather rushed and too much down to
business. After enjoying another cocktail in the room, we
went to bed that night dreaming of our next destination of
Santa Fe, New Mexico, the Rio Grande, and old Spanish
settlements. It was only day 8 into our trip. We had not
even hit the half way mark and would soon overdose on
scrumptious Mexican food.
TO BE
CONTINUED......
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